Evolve Back Kabini

Onwards to Kabini. Before breakfast I had had a dip in our small pool which woke me up successfully. Then after another mediocre breakfast, but with superb fruit juices, we were picked up by Anthony at 9.00 a.m.

After two hours on the road, we stopped at a large rock on top of which was a Buddha. This was Shravababelagola, one of the most important Jain pilgrimage sites anywhere in India. We turned down a climb up the 650 steps to the top for a chance to see the monolithic Gommateshwara Statue. But I did get it through my telephoto lens. It probably would have added more than an hour to our journey time which in total was seven hours to Kabini. And further it had to be done without shoes and on bare rock in the heat of the day' It was also the worst place we came across in India for touts, pushily trying to sell you socks to cover your feet if you were toiling up the steps with no shoes - mind you it is difficult to see why you cannot wear shoes, but can wear socks for the ascent - such are the subtleties of religion

The 58-feet tall monolithic statue of Gommateshwara is considered to be the world's largest monolithic statue. The base of the statue has an inscriptions in Prakrit, dating from 981 AD. The inscription praises the king who funded the effort and his general, Chavundaraya, who erected the statue for his mother. Every twelve years, thousands of devotees congregate here to perform the Mahamastakabhisheka, a spectacular ceremony in which the statue is anointed with Water, Turmeric, Rice flour, Sugar cane juice, Sandalwood paste, saffron, and gold and silver flowers. Recently Mahamastakabhisheka was held in 2018. The next Mahamastakabhisheka will be held in 2030



This is what we did not actually see ....	and this is what we did see with telephoto lens	Our driver had a constant battle to find an Indian Oil station ..	that would take his Indian Oil Card

The local farmers used passing cars to winnow their rice

At Kabini we were staying at the Evolve Back Hotel. We had the usual effusive welcome but were left to ourselves for awhile after the naturalist had gone through our program for the following three days, so we decided to walk down to the lake but at this stage a bimbo miraculously appeared and escorted us to our room..

As with the last Evolve Back Hotel at Hampi, she was unable to promise us a table in the specialty restaurant where we would beserved, as opposed to the buffet restaurant. We also had problems in the luggage not being there after half an hour after we had arrived: this was obviously done so that we would be around to tip the porter who brought it!

I went for a swim in a large pool with wonderful views over the lake whilst David tried to sort out reception with a booking in the restaurant for the evening, but we’re still told it would take time.

At 5:30 pm we went on the sunset cruise in quite an old boat with a naturalist guide. There were about 12 others on it and motored out to the middle of the lake and then the boat man gave a spiel for about 10 minutes, of which we understood little

We went to reception on the way back and found that we had got a reservation for this evening, but we would have to negotiate again tomorrow for tomorrow night! Then we stopped off in the bar and had a cocktail with gorgeous views over the lake with a red twilight. Then a quick change for dinner which was very nice but far too large and the waiter insisted that everything was so small that we would need two of them rather than the one which we had tried to order. Then back to the room with its pleasant sitting area where we had a coffee.

On the banks of the Kabini River, the heartland of the Kadu Kuruba tribe, is the beautiful Evolve Back is a luxurious eco-friendly lodge in Nagarhole National Park. The comfortable yet rustic huts have been built to reflect the local tribal villages and surrounding nature without compromising on the comforts of the west on the inside.

The thirty thatched roof bungalow huts have either private pools or Jacuzzis and all have access to the riverside infinity pool. Guests can enjoy a meal whilst watching the sunset from either of the two restaurants which serve local and international dishes, and grill platters.

Located on the edge of the River Kabini, in the heartland of the Kadu Kuruba tribe, Kabini borders both the Bandipur and Nagarhole National Parks. Home to elusive tigers, leopards, elephants and over 250 species of birds, it was the setting of an early morning safari with naturalist guide to discover Nagarhole National Park from a different perspective on a shared boat safari. From our hotel, we were taken upstream along the Kabini River, which borders both Nagarhole and Bandipur national parks. This is a beautiful and peaceful way to observe the wildlife along the banks of the river.

We met just before 6:15 am in reception for our 6.15 expedition which was a boat Safari, but we did not actually get on the boat until 6:30 am, which was hardly amusing. Later they said this this was for us to enjoy the breakfast there: but all that had been provided were very stale croissants and tea and coffee! There were about 20 of us on the boat which soon hugged the edges of the national parks. We were able to see several types of birds. Some deer and an elderly elephant right near the end. But that was more interesting than I had thought it would be.

We got back to the hotel before 10 am and had breakfast which was a very princely set up.

Then at 11 am, we were out again in a jeep just to ourselves to visit the tribal villages. We had two guides on this one of whom was from one of the local tribes. The vehicle was very spacious, high up so that we could get a good view of everything. They pointed out local flowers, trees, birds, and local crops before we arrived at the house of the local tribes man who worked for the company two or three days a week to supplement his earnings as a farmer. We learnt about the ministry of tribal affairs and what the local Indians were still allowed to do in the National parks. We ended up at the man’s or rather boys home and we’re shown the wide range of crops vegetables, coffee plants, pepper et cetera that he was raising, alongside chickens, goats, sheep and bullocks

Back of the hotel by 1 p.m. we had a short chat with Sean who was the head of the guides supplied by the hotel. A short break in our room for a coffee and snack before setting off again at 2:15 pm for a Safari in the National park. We needed a ferry across the lake and then a 10 minute drive from the jetty to the entrance of the park. By the time we were allowed to proceed in the park it was 3.30 pm, 15 minute wait here there and everywhere.

In the afternoon we crossed the lake to get a 16 seater shared safari truck on the other bank to explore in Nagarhole National Park. Nagarhole is home to the elusive tiger and leopard, herds of elephants and wild dogs, easily spotted bison, chital and sambar deer, four horned antelope, wild boar, monkeys and over 300 species of birds. However, the park is most famous for sightings of large elephant herds and supporting the highest density of herbivores in Asia.

We were not impressed by the vehicle we had which seated 22 people but at least we were given a front seat in this presumably because they considered us as somewhat decrepit!

But from then on we had an impressive time seeing both a tiger swim lazing in a water hole and then exiting from that and also a leopard lying on a log . The afternoon also included a Hell for leather ride to get to the tiger before it disappeared: in my opinion quite a dangerous ride and we all clung on tight for about 15 minutes but we only got to the tiger with seven minutes to spare so it was well worthwhile It was 7 pm by the time we were back at the hotel and we then had to wash off all the dust that had accumulated on us before enjoying dinner in specialty restaurant.

Tiger spotting (or indeed lion, leopard or cheetah spotting) these days is more down to walkie talkie communications between guides , than to the individual safari wagons finding big game for themselves. Here the call came over the RT, and the driver took off like a maniac. It was a large vehicle, and he was doing four wheel skids round trees as he slalomed to get to the tiger in time

Our tiger was enjoying a dip in a water hole. It occasionally emitted strange throaty roars, and eventually walked slowly out of the water hole and disappeared behind a small hill

To be truthful, this fine shot is down more to my telephoto lens, than to my real perception of a leopard. It was tucked away behind a distant tree when we arrived. It was also looking away from us. By good fortune, it decided to face the other direction, towards us. Hence a really nice photo of the leopard on its tree, which I only appreciated when I saw the photo.

Before exiting we saw a few more animals, but tame in comparison to the tiger and leopard

A restful day after all the outings of Saturday. But still we started at 5:25 am for a trip round the game park . Again we boarded the boat about 5:40 am and in the park by 6:30 am. This time we were scheduled to travel in a jeep and we thought this would be restricted to 8 people but at the last moment they cram two more in so that we had three on the backseat which was hardly convivial also the driver/guide., Arnie was far from perfect: we could not hear him 70% of the time and he kept moving the vehicle just when David was taking a photograph so altogether a disappointing Safari Most of the group did see a tiger that I failed to find him and he was not nearly so easily recognised as the one from Saturday. We stop to look at several birds as five of the passengers were twitchers.


Finding tiger tracks



But today's tiger was fast asleep up a narrow gully	The tiger was difficult to see and difficult to photograph

Back to looking

We were back for breakfast by 10 am and after this sat in the shaded gazebo near the pool for an hour or so. And I went back to the room and had a siesta before having a swim: nobody else was in the pool and there was sufficient shade for me to avoid the very hot sun. Then we had a little lunch in the room after I had had a Jacuzzi in the tiny garden Terrace.

We then went for a Bullock car ride which was great fun: it was somewhat difficult to squeeze into but once comfy we had at least 30 minute round tour, first along the beach and then to a nearby temple.

After this we went to the library which was out at the end of the hotel overlooking the lake on two sides, having stopped on route for some delicious kiwi and basil tea and one sandwich each. We then got changed for dinner and went up for a cocktail, mine a really delicious mixture with honey and ginger in it David’s was called a volcano and arrived flaming. In the bar we chatted to another British couple who had just arrived. We briefly watched the dancing before going on to the restaurant for another dinner there.