Monday, March 3.
An exhilarating swim in the huge infinity pool before breakfast where we had a chat to Sean, the chief excursions coordinator, about the problems of the previous days Safari. Then we left at 9:30 am for the 3+ hour drive to Coorg: I was very sleepy during this.
Our drive from Kabini to Coorg takes us up into the lush hills of the Western Ghats, to the misty hills and verdant forests around the old hill station of Coorg. Traditional home of the Kodava people, the area is rich in rice and coffee and the drive took us through a landscape of undulating hills and quaint Indian villages.
The scenery became interesting as we climbed a little for the last 15 minutes of the journey. This was our third Evolve Back Hotel. It was set in 34 acres of an estate which had been a coffee plantation and still was to a lesser extent given that the 57 villas constructed 25 years ago, obviously meant pulling out some of the coffee bushes .
A pleasant but less effusive welcome than in the other two eponymous hotels. Then a buggy ride to our upgraded villa, 706 , which had a huge living room and two patios outside plus a decent size pool and a comfortable jacuzzi. We received a coconut drink here as a welcome whilst our hostess explained what we were going to do during our time here . On the way in the buggy she had shown us the various restaurants and routes to the pool, et cetera but we were still not quite sure our way around and the map she sent us via WhatsApp proved useless. We unpacked what we needed and had a light snack lunch outside and I had a skinny dip in the pool.
Evolve Back Coorg
Within a 300 acre plantation paradise is the Evolve Back hotel area. The resort is perfumed with the subtly intoxicating aroma of coffee and spice, providing a sense of calm and tranquility, an ideal accompaniment to the resorts peaceful infinity pool. The Villas, inspired by ethnic Kodava architecture, are dotted around the resort, all with private plunge pools.
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| Seems to be a slice missing | Looks as though these two are the culprits |
Before four, we set off walking to the "experience centre" where a plantation walk commenced at 4 pm. This was very interesting particularly the tales of how elephants got into the property despite all the precautions taken against them we ended the walk in the Granary restaurant where high tea was being served and had some filter coffee with our guide: also a sumptuous square of coffee and chocolate cake.
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After this we walked to the infinity pool where happy hour was taking place and had one each of the two cocktails that were served there. It was quite idyllic with the setting sun over the pool and the lake beyond. We got back to the room as dusk had fallen and I had another swim before going to the Peppercorn restaurant soon after 7:30 pm. I managed to have a two course non-spicy, very delicious, dinner and we returned to the Villa for a cup of coffee.
Tuesday, the 4th of March.
I swam in the villa pool before breakfast and then we left with Anthony and a guide from the hotel called Honey for our outing to a plantation owned by tribal family about an hour away. It was billed as "Day With the Kodavas with Lunch. Today's highlight is a visit to a traditional Ainmane, a 400-year-old ancestral building that belongs to the indigenous Kodava. Each Ainmane belongs to an okka (patrilineal clan) and it is here that the clan gather for special ceremonies and occasions. It also acts as a community museum, helping to enrich and nurture Kodava's cultural heritage. After a traditional lunch, you'll return to the hotel "
The drive was very pleasant and we arrived at the house of the couple owning the plantation to find the husband have been called away due to his brother’s illness but this was not really explained properly to us and we sat in awkward silence in the lounge for a while before the lady started asking us questions about our lives. After a while, I said could we not hear about the plantation and their lives instead? But nothing was really proffered to us Whilst she was out of the room Honey did explain a little about the tribes called Kodava. After a drink of watery papaya juice we soon went through to another room for a very early lunch, this was meant to be a culinary highlight. There were several curry dishes and some rice and glass noodles and I managed to look as if I was eating happily without taking too much as anything hot. When we produced the teddy bears for a photo, the lady was quite thrilled about them and became a bit more human and told us a bit about her life but not about the tribal unit at all. Then there was a pleasant pudding of coconut milk and poppyseed like a liquid yogurt. When we had finished eating Honey went out to get Anthony who was ushered through to the kitchen for his lunch, something that neither of us was happy with. Our hostess had other things to do in town at 2 pm so we were back at the hotel well before 2:30 pm . Whereas our itinerary had said we will be back an hour later . So we waited to see if anybody would follow up on this somewhat distressful experience but by the time we went to bed, nothing has really happened.
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We read in the villa for a while and then went down to the Infinity edge pool where I enjoyed a swim before walking back to the Granary restaurant for afternoon tea. Then back in the villa for a while before going back to the pool area for a cocktail, then a swim in our small pool before going to the vegetarian restaurant for supper. But we did not stay there long as they said, everything was pre-cooked and everything was spicy. So we made our way to the Granary restaurant to partake of the buffet. This in fact turned out to be a pleasant meal and after a salad the starters the chef cooked me a non-spicy chicken in a creamy sauce. The staff there were very attentive to us.
Back in the villa we were disturbed twice by a phone call telling us that there was a delivery man at our door and could we open it. David explained that we had not ordered anything but they insisted that we open the door, and said that that they would deliver it for breakfast otherwise. Eventually we opened the door and received what they called a surprise, which was a cake saying." Happy advance birthday" : apparently I have mentioned to someone that it was my birthday at the end of March and this have reached management. So much for beginning to reduce our calorie input which have been excessive over the past 10 days.
The world news was also very dismal so we are hoping that tomorrow brings a brighter day.
Wednesday, March 5 .
An early morning dip, then breakfast and then off at 10 am with Anthony and a hotel guide, Jackson , we drove for an hour to explore a Tibetan community at Bylekuppe which have been formed by Tibetan refugees 60 years ago when China invaded Tibet. Bylekuppe is the largest Tibetan settlement in the world outside Tibet. Today, an estimated 70,000 Tibetans live in the settlements, of which roughly 4000 to 6000 are monks ; these were established on land leased by the state government to accommodate some of the Tibetan expatriates who came to resettle in India after 1959.
There was a massive beautiful Buddha and also a large temple. We walked for a long time along a long line of never-ending prayer wheels which Tibetans touch as they say that prayers. It was an odd complex being so modern which made it seem a bit army camp like. The place is an odd mix of the ancient and the modern
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We were back at the hotel by 1:30 pm and were met by the manager and Honey who were all remorse at the bad experience we had had on Tuesday. She wrote down David’s account of what has happened, presumably to email to the couple who had failed to show us 400 year-old tribal house and talk about their culture.
We were then offered a jeep tour of the plantation to make up for our experience This we took at 4 pm after I had had a swim at the smaller pool by the Granary restaurant. It was quite luxurious viewing a plantation from the comfort of the jeep, albeit as this was sometimes somewhat jerky. We learnt about the four expensive trees of the plantation: Sandalwood Rosewood, Mahogany and Teak. All these had their secondary income crop of pepper growing up them . After about an hour we came to a hidden platform which gave us views above the coffee plants. Here we were given a drink and some very nice nibbles. Altogether, a pleasant experience
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Then had a cocktail in the bar beside the Granary restaurant. This was not quite so lovely as the lakeside cocktail area but was much nearer for us. Then back in the room a quick siesta, a dip in the pool and then a light supper at the Peppercorn restaurant.
Checkout next morning. I gave in and called a buggy to transport us and our baggage to reception
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