Saturday, November 29. Moraira to Madrid .
A fairly leisurely day, included two hours of online bridge with the Morning Bridgers group, before leaving home at 3 pm for a 5:45 flight from Valencia to Madrid.
When we landed there our luggage did not appear and neither did that of several other people on the flight. We queued up at the Iberia desk for a long time and David and another girl were using their trackers to see where the cases were, seemingly nowhere. But after another hour had passed one chap who had to catch another flight had a final check on the belt and found the cases had eventually arrived. By this time I had got to the front of the queue and was being dealt with, but was able to tell them that we were okay after all. We then went outside to the appointed place for a hotel bus and had quite a job getting through to the hotel on the phone, but eventually we did around 8 o’clock and the bus arrived about 15 minutes later. By the time we arrived at the Boston House Hotel the bus was completely full after a number of stops at different terminals, but I managed to get into reception ahead of everybody else and had a very quick check-in. Delighted to be back in a warm place. We went down to the bar and had a glass of wine each before returning back to our room for a good supper of sandwiches, egg tomatoes, fruit and buns just what we needed . Then to bed for a fairly early night, let us see what the tomorrow brings.
Sunday, November 30 and Monday, December 1. Madrid to Taipei via Shanghai.
We left the Boston |House Hotel at 8 am after a little breakfast in our bedroom. The shuttle bus was quite full and we were dropped off at terminal one within quarter of an hour . We quickly checked in for our flight to Taipei. But then there was a complete crush of humanity to get through security, quite incredible but we had plenty of time so it did not really matter.
It was an 11 1/2 hour flight to Shanghai on East China Airlines, We were in premium economy: this gave us considerably wider seat and more leg space, but the food was exactly the same as in economy, not terribly good but mainly edible. But there was only two meals with an eight hour gap between them so I got quite peckish. Also the in-flight entertainment was just about non-existent other than in Chinese so we had to rely on our iPads for things to read. We landed in Shanghai at 5:30 am, the time there being seven hours in advance of Spanish time. Once again there was an incredible mass of humanity in the international transfer area for the flight to Taipei and once again I took a photo of this, very naughty or risky. Shanghai Airport was reputed to be the latest in airports, but it seemed very shabby compared to most international airports. There was no information desk and flights only appeared about four hours before takeoff on the information boards.
However, the six hour layover went quite quickly and we were soon on board the flight to Taipei at noon and this flight was only an hour and a half duration. Our luggage miraculously appeared quite quickly and we were soon in an Uber speeding the 15 minutes journey to the centre of Taipei Where we stayed in room 1005 at the Grand Hyatt Hotel. This was a very nice suite but without much of a view, although we could just see the 101 story tower, Taipei 101, from our window. By this time it was gone 4 pm so we quickly turned ourselves round and went out for a 90 minute explore, walking round the block and arriving at tower 101 and finding out where the lifts were for our trip there tomorrow.
One once back at the hotel we went out searching for the swimming pool. Quite fortuitously we ended up in the Club Lounge on one of the upper floors where we managed to get free tapas and drinks. We had a long conversation with three Americans from San Francisco. After this we did find the swimming pool and decided that it was suitable for me to have a night swim although it was fairly dark around the pool but quite picturesque with all the lights of the surrounding skyscrapers. I did six lengths. Back in the room we had a cup of coffee and read for awhile. So two days diary contained here but we had lost seven hours of those two days.
Tuesday, December 2. Taipei
We set off just before 11 and walked to 101, this being the tallest tower in the world between 2004 and 2010. We bought a ticket there to the 88th floor, which was the tourist attraction And one could walk around the complete circumference of the building looking over the views down below of Taipei, which included wooded and hilly areas. It was beautifully decorated for Christmas and quite magical. We bought a green tea ice cream which came with four little eclairs and also a mango shake. Also, there was a huge damper which served to stabilise the building in the event of a tornado or earthquake.
After this we walked the 3 to 5 km to the memorial to Chiang Kai-shek, who fled to Taipei in 1945 and ruled as an absolute dictator until 1975. This memorial was really impressive. On arriving there just before 2 pm we hurried to see the changing of the guard. Six soldiers tossed their rifles around in the air impressively. We then went inside and saw the various exhibitions, one of them a history through time of the world from 1945 onwards with a giant clock presiding over it.
Before leaving this David bought a brown sugar Bubba, a drink common in the city which had globs of gelatinous substance in it and was not to Chris’s taste. The walk back to the hotel seemed quite a lot shorter, a lot of time being spent waiting at road crossings. Once back at the hotel, I had a swim and then we went up to the room .
We then were bombarded by phone calls from IMed in Benidorm which we got on both our phones. They were to the effect that my latest CT scan there had not been conclusive and they were afraid that my colon might be perforated. This was an emergency and they wanted me to go and have another CT scan as soon as possible. We suggested flying back, and there was a flight within four hours which would’ve got us back in Valencia by Wednesday early morning, but they forbade this and said it wasimperative to go straight to emergency. So we took an Uber to the University Medical Hospital where we were promptly attended to a blood test, followed by a CT scan and all was done within three hours. The hospital CT scan showed that I had not got a perforation and that we were free to continue with our holiday plans.
We then had to wait to receive the paperwork involved but were back at the hotel by just before 11, but not early enough to get any food there. So we went to the bar and had a Caipirinha each and some crisps and nuts: a somewhat frugal day in the amount of food that had entered either of our stomachs.
Wednesday, December 3 Taipei to Keelung and aboard the Coral Geographer.
I slept until 10 am and then we stayed in the room while David dealt with paperwork in corresponding with Imed
At midday we checked out and walked to 101 again and went up to the 88th floor where there was a café. The lift there was free, but had a minimum spend at the cafe attached to that. I had a delicious cia bata bread with fennel and salad salad and some cinnamon toast. Then back to the hotel foyer until 2 pm when David tried to call an Uber: there were phone problems, the uber went to the wrong address and it was probably about 14.30 before we actually got into it. We then drove to Keelung where the Coral Geographer was moored. We boarded at 15:30 and went to our cabin, 518, which was very pleasant. Then up to the lounge for some sparkling wine and scones before returning to do a little unpacking before the 5 pm briefing by the purser and the expedition leader, Dawn.
Then a little more unpacking before dinner at 6:30 pm. A dinner was on tables of eight and I happened to sit next to an obnoxious Australian lady who thought all her opinions were words from God. But it was a nice seafood starter and then the main course seem fine but the rocking of the boat was too much for me and I had to retire to the cabin. David came down half an hour later seemingly fine until he lay down and then his dinner was lost. They had been warned in the dining room that it would get rougher before things got better so maybe the stabilisers are not too effective on this ship. Anyway hopefully tomorrow will bring better weather.
Thursday, December 4 . Keelung to Suao
We had a very rough night sailing from Keelung to Suao, where we arrived at around 6:30 am: we were surprised as a ship had been travelling 13 or so hours to do a 80 km. We then had breakfast, and had no problems with this. All ashore was at 8 am and we got into three buses and set off into the countryside.
Our bus stopped first in the tea fields We learnt about picking tea leaves, then cooking them for a while before rolling them. We learnt about the different lengths of fermentation that determine what sort of tea was produced. 100% fermentation led to black tea, while 0% fermentation gave green tea. In the middle 50% fermentation gave Oolong tea for which this tea plantation seemed to be famous. We then went on to an area where we were able to sample the different sorts of tea, both through smell and through taste. The tasting was set in an old house with an interesting garden with fishponds.
After the tea tasting we got back on the coach and proceeded to lunch which was at a sort of Disneyland Centre but not nearly so commercial. The actual lunch was on a table for about 10 with a Lazy Susan in the middle and upon this various dishes were added and added. We started off with smoked duck and tomato salad which had sugar on it, most enjoyable. There were also meatballs, rice, chicken with scallion sauce, Chinese cabbage, squid and topped off with a peculiar ice cream. We then had an hour free to see the puppet theatre and the various temples, workshops and shops in the place and the sculptures in the meadow beyond the river.
At 2 pm, we assembled again in our bus, where we had a really good view of the countryside and drove on to the Cavalan whiskey factory, which was huge. Here we had a 30 minute tour but the guide was not too comprehensible. Then a taste of three different whiskeys. After this David bought a small bottle of whiskey and a whiskey ice cream. We were then given two tiny bottles of whiskey each as a Christmas present by the tour guide. We got back to the ship about 5 pm and had to hurry to be at the captains welcome drink party at 5:30 pm. But in fact this did not start till 6 pm, which was a bit annoying. The party had good tapas. We were told that the bad weather was likely to follow us for another five days or so. We had dinner With Charles and his Italian partner and this was really interesting as he was as well travelled, as we were but have been on different cruise lines that we had never heard about. After this there was a film written by a Taiwan/American man who was worried about what would happen if China invaded Taiwan. And so to bed by about 9 pm.
Friday, December 5. At sea North of the Philippines.
By the time we woke up the ships rolling had decreased but not disappeared. Breakfast was at 7:45 and we were told that this was a very reasonable time for Coral! After this at 9 am, there was a briefing on Water activities that lasted over half an hour. Later on at 10:30 am Stella, a Filipino of Chinese origin who had lived in Australia for 23 years with a German husband Jurgen, gave a talk on the heady days of the 1986 revolution by the people in the Philippines in which she had played her part. She was very emotional That it was interesting that she said she would not take us any further on in Filipino history so we have to research that for ourselves.
Lunch at 11:45 am was good and then we retired to the room four hours during which I slept a good deal. David bought a superior Wi-Fi package and I found I could get hold of the news and my Podcasts, which was good. There was a briefing at 4:45 about what we were going to do on the tomorrow which had been altered due to the strong winds now hitting us. After getting changed for dinner. We went up to the lounge and we had a cocktail . We managed to sit by ourselves for dinner which was again very good food and afterwards we watched a documentary for almost an hour on the mystery of the Philippines and its animal life.
Saturday, December 6, the ship arrives in the north of the Philippines.
Breakfast at 7:30 and then aboard the Explorer landing launch which seated up to 60 people, for a very quick trip to the beach. It had been a very rough night and the plans had been changed for us to land in a sheltered cove. Once ashore, Jeepneys were used to transport us. These were American World War II jeeps converted by the locals in 1956 as a means of giving cheap transport to the population.
This was a new destination for Coral. We were packed approximately 10 people each to each jeepney. Our first stop was after an hour of travelling somewhat fast in a vehicle which belched diesel fumes into our passenger compartment and was very noisy. The stop was a farm where they gave us a welcome dance routine which was very colourful and effective and did not last too long either. We then went for a walk round the lake and saw them throwing a net in to it to catch tilapia fish. The fish were then cooked and deboned for us to snack on little bits. We were then hassled out as the next of our three groups of 30 people arrived.
Our next stop was to listen to a band of teenage girls playing the banjo, an instrument looking like a lute. There were also coconut available to drink and some dubious snacks but the music was magical. At this. stop like the first, we had to be introduced to the local worthies. Then onto our final stop, which was to see the production of something called Sappo. It was made from rice and coconut milk and tasted to me a bit like marzipan, which was cooked wrapped in a banana leaf. Then back with a walk along a black sand beach to board the Explorer again. Although this vehicle affected a much more rapid transfer to shore, I was not convinced that it was in the true spirit of an expedition: give me a bouncy zodiac any day. We were not back to the ship till at least 13.30, so a late lunch and then just a short gap before the days review by Dawn. The review was followed by a slide show by Jurgen on tropical fish, not my cup of tea ready and I had difficulties staying awake during it. We then sat on the balcony at the back of the ship, which was warmer than our cabin. The inside of the ship in general always has been rather on the cold side. At supper we were joined again by Malcolm Fraser and another Australian man, the conversation was interesting but there were large portions of it which I could not hear because of the noise of the ship, which was somewhat frustrating. Dinner was followed by a half hour film on the effects of a volcanic eruption on the local mountain tribes, who seem to suffer from a lack of land now and even not getting a basic hovel to live in by the government.
And so to bed after a satisfying expedition day.
Sunday, December 7, Palaui Island, Cape Engano
We went to shore at 8:30 am on the Explorer launch to the beach and very quick journey. It was not a wet landing, so we kept our wet shoes on for the walk. This was a walk along the beach followed by 362 steps up a path to the lighthouse, which had been built at the end of the 19 century by the Spanish to guide ships sailing around here. It was very windy but the climb was not too exhausting and the views from the top were quite magnificent even though it was a dull and stormy day. We took lots of photos out of the lighthouse. It had lots of ruined living accommodation around it and was completely different to any British lighthouse. On the way back once at the beach , we were given a Mulberry drink which was very pleasant. There were some outriggers in the sea here. I decided not to have a swim thinking that there would be sunny, nicer beaches ahead of us for the next 10 days. So we took the 10.30 launch back to the ship, had a shower and sat on the balcony for a while. It blew up a bit before lunch but during lunch we were fairly stable but we then told to go back to the cabins as we would have to go out of the bay into really rough conditions. This was indeed true and we ended up spending the rest of the day confined to our cabin and the meal was delivered very efficiently, course by course, to the room soon after 6 pm. We think the ship being considerably smaller than the 200 passenger Silversea ones, the effect of bad weather is far more on the stability of the ship. The forecast for tomorrow is slightly better but still not exactly cheerful.
Monday, December 8 at sea in the northern Philippines.
The seas had subsided by the morning and once more life was pleasant on board. After breakfast there was a talk by Stella on Abacá , the fibres obtained from a banana plant. She had spent five years producing a documentary there on the work of these Dreamweavers and was obviously enamoured by it at the time. Her film was shot around the year 2000. She had then taken them and their work to Manila and I think it was exhibited in the museum there. Unfortunately, she did not have a sample of the finished product to show us which was slightly disappointing.
At 11 am, we had a tour by one of the junior engineers of the engine room , which was bright and shiny, but also very hot and noisy down in the depths of the ship. After lunch there was nothing until 3 pm, when we had a briefing. This was followed by trivia where we were teams of six, obviously without David! Our team finished in the middle but the questions were extremely hard and I have never had a trivia with such a poor success rate: it would seem more sensible to allow a few more answers to be correct!
Soon after this we went for a walk round all the decks which we had not explored before and then went up to the outside of deck six for a passion fruit cocktail which was sumptuous, but there were no tapas to go with it. The food at dinner was not good, we did not think the salmon was even salmon, and the scallops were certainly not scallops, but we had a good conversation with two Australians, Gail and Charlie.
Tuesday, December 9. Jomalig Island, Polillo Islands Group, Northern Philippines.
We boarded the Explorer to go ashore at 8:30 am and then had 15 minutes on hold as they could not get the craft level to descend from the ship. This was eventually done by moving the passengers from one end of the Explorer to the other . We then got to shore and about eight passengers got to the beach but then the crew decided it was too difficult to disembark the remaining 30 odd of us, although they did have several tries . So we cruised up and down the shoreline for some 20 minutes, watching the locals dance, all very colourful. We could also see the severe undercutting of the beach which had been gradually eroded over the last few years, helped along by the recent typhoon of November 8. We got back to the ship before 10 and then had another problem with getting the Explorer level with the ship and all four engineers had to be called out to try and manoeuvre it into place. This probably took 15 minutes or so but we had nothing else to do anyway.
After lunch We went out again in the Explorer to another beach on the south side of the island. The locals had dispatched all the performers from the original site by motorbike to this area, Where we did indeed get ashore followed by a 90 minutes walk through the village, e after watching a very colourful display on the beach. We walked over a river where there were lots of outriggers. We also saw them replacing roofs destroyed by the recent typhoon and saw sweet potatoes and herbs growing along the roadside. There were colourful guides who took us in groups of eight. Ours was called Honey. We walked as far as a copra depot where they roasted the coconut shells to make copra and charcoal. By the time we got back to the beach there was an Explorer to take us back to the ship. So I did not bother to try to get a swim thinking that I could always get one on the morrow. By the time we got back to the ship, people were saying that the morrow was a sea day , which was not what our program said at all but it turned out to be the truth. At the 5.15 briefing the expedition leader, Dawn, tried to justify this but did not do a very good job. Also at the very last minute she suddenly announced that the evening’s barbecue was in fact not up on deck but in the dining room. So at 6 pm, we went down to the barbecue which was just meat barbecued on the kitchen grill . But it was in fact quite pleasant although the steak was not of a high-quality at all. The salads were great and that was nice cheese afterwards, instead of a sickly dessert. Malcolm Fraser again shared a bottle of Shiraz with us. After dinner I went up to the lounge and participated in a game session in a team of four and quite enjoyed this.
I’m so to get another early bed and the thought of another full sea day ahead of us.
Wednesday, the 10th of December. yet another day at Sea.
There was a briefing at 9:15 when Dawn gave us a new schedule but there was still no apology from Coral about the deception of what they were selling. She also told us about what we would be doing the next day ashore at Biri Island. After this there was a talk by Stella about the last surrender which was a story of a Japanese warrior soldier who held out in an island just south of Manila for 29 years at the end of World War II: at first he had three other soldiers with him but they gradually died or were killed. He terrorised the local Filipino community and killed at least 30 of them maybe 50 of them in his sorties for food , while believing that he was still fighting the Americans. Eventually he was old wartime Colonel convinced him that the war had actually ended when his superior travelled to the Philippines to tell him that he must surrender. President Marcos gave him a pardon and he returned to Japan a real hero, married a rich lady and went to Brazil to farm dying in his 90s in the present century.
Then lunch out on deck and he talk by Yogi at 3 pm on Filipino fish and the story of the whale shark. Basically the Filipinos subsisted mainly on rice with just a sprinkle of fish. Then at 5 pm there was a wine tasting with three wines given by Aaron. This was very well done and there were three tapas to pair with the three wines offered, a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay and a Barrosa Shiraz.
We went out on deck again, but it was very humid
Then we discovered that we had to be off the ship by 7:30 on the morrow, so we had an early night.
Thursday, the 11th of December. Biri Island
We took the second Explorer to Biri Island, where we were welcomed by a colourful display of dancing. We then climbed into the tuktuks, but they called them chariots in the Philippines, for a 15 minute ride to a fishery village. There were five of us in the chariot and it was a bit squashed and not very comfortable. By the time we got to the fishery village, it was pouring with rain, so we sheltered for a while and then walked down to the village where they had stations set up to show how they prepared the tiny rabbit fish, which was the normal catch in the area. They first filet it, and then take out the tiny bones and then soak it in brine for an hour and then dry it. The drying process took two days in the sun or a lot longer when they had to keep collecting it up due to the showers . We had some food here which was better than at the last session and it was quite acceptable. They package the dry fish and distribute it to other Philippine villages. The cost of it did not seem particularly cheap.
We then went on to a beach which was very scenic and they had quite a lot of food prepared for us and a really peculiar drink. After this we crossed the river which involved me taking off my trainers and then borrow David's shoes to walk on the very stony beach area to a lookout over two scenic Islands. On the return journey I put on my trainers again so that David could wear his own shoes and not have to go barefoot over the coral. Then I had to take trainers off again to cross the river. Then put them back on again.
Then a journey in the tuktuks/chariots back to the Explorer and another dance display before returning to the ship just before 11 am. After lunch at 11:30, we went out again at 1 pm to La Laguna Mangrove Ecopark, which have been set up by the local women around 2018. We were only the second cruise boat that had ever visited them and we were made very welcome. There were walkways along the mangroves and bridges over inlets. And several bits of entertainment en route. We got to an area where there was a lemon grass drink and more refreshments. We were then ready to climb many many steps up to a lookout where there was a tower with a circular staircase up to the top of it. From here a wondrous view over the surrounding countryside. Really worthwhile the effort to get there.
When we got back to the Explorer, we waited for about 15 minutes or so whilst about half a dozen people had a swim off it . On board there was a brief briefing at 5 pm and then we went out onto the back deck on deck 6 and a very enjoyable cocktail and some Tapas A thunderstorm raged around us with magnificent sheet lightning. We were pleased that we could still have dinner outside on deck 4 and have a pleasant time with Charles and Ciara and Kim and Karen although the conversation was always difficult to understand across the table with the noise of the engines. Then back to the cabin for a little whiskey.
Friday 12th of December. Higatangan Island.
We arrived on Higatangan Island soon after eight and had the usual welcome of many dancers and singers. And also unfortunately, someone with a very loud annoying voice over a microphone all the time. After we had watched a group of 15 or so girls dancing, David put the boys down on the floor in front of them and there was immediately a rugby scrum to gain ownership of them: one of our crew members had to step in to rescue the lads and they seem to be no ill feeling on their part anyway.
We then moved on to a place where they made canoes/outriggers and so how this program process was achieved and had the opportunity of painting one of them with designs and the word Coral Geographer. Then in a tuk-tuk to another place where there was a fishing demonstration, how they made the nets, caught the fish and dried the fish. Then to the "horticultural garden"s but these turned out to be just a small herb garden where we saw how they use the herbs to make various patent medicines . The herb garden was very well kept. But given the name horticultural garden we had expected a long quiet walk away from the annoying man with his loudspeaker.
The final stop before a very early lunch was at a lighthouse which seemed to be inland, but presumably is not far from the sea. Here we had a coconut drink. Earlier on the walk to the fisherman‘s village we had seen monkeys and men climbing trees and throwing down coconuts. We then had our lunch before 11 am: It had been scheduled for 11:30 am. It looked very very impressive though I was not particularly impressed with what I ate. However there was some good fresh mango and the coconut rolls were excellent. Then another tuk-tuk ride to the beach beside the pontoon, where they were many straw umbrellas where we could sit and change for swimming. I thoroughly enjoyed my swim, although it was difficult to get in and out and I had to have assistance. I used a noodle and this made swimming breaststroke slightly difficult. After all these activities we were back in the ship by 12.30 and I felt quite hungry during the afternoon. At 3 pm there was a briefing and then a talk by Stella on "Rice growing in the Philippines".
Later, there was a cocktail making demonstration where we tasted an Aperol , a Negroni and a Cosmopolitan. Dinner at the usual time of 6:30 pm we took outside where it was very much warmer than inside, but unfortunately the engines were again making excess noise this night but still managed to have a reasonable conversation.
Saturday, December 13. Camiguin and Mantigue
We were delayed setting off to Camiguin due to the local customs man not coming aboard on time to clear us into the island. Once he arrived, it took him a good two minutes to sign us in. Once ashore we were divided into five mini buses. each taking six passenger,s plus a guide, plus a member of the expedition team. It was around a 30 minute drive to the foot of Mount Vulcan which we were to climb up to a certain level for a view over the island. Originally we had been given an hour and a half for the climb and 30 minutes for the descent but this was suddenly reduced to an hour for the climb and 20 minutes for the descent, so there were some pressure on us and it was really really humid making it quite a difficult climb but we eventually got to the viewpoint where we were allowed all of 30 seconds to admire the view, before returning. Carl assisted me in places on the descent which was less of a demand on the lungs but slippery underneath with loose stones.
After this we drove to the waterfall place. Katibawasasan waterfall which was 70 m high and quite scenic. David surprised me by going in for a swim there, but the access to the waterfall pool made it far too difficult for me.
We got back to the ship about one for lunch and set off again at 2:30 pm to the tiny island of Mantigue. Here we were could snorkel or swim, but we decided to walk round the island. The walk was slightly difficult in places to avoid the branches without getting our feet wet. After this David persuaded me that I could go in for a swim and this I did with considerable help from Dawn, who got me in, and then got me out. We got back to the boat just as a huge rain shower hit us.
At 5:30 we enjoyed a cocktail and talking to Gail and Charlie, Gail having adopted Elfie, a Father Christmas style elf that have been put up with some Christmas decorations. Then a preview which told us that we were going to an island with the tiny mammal called a Tarsier. I had a long chat to Barry, a widowed diver, who was very bitter about the death of his beloved wife Robin. In his opinion her death was due to bad care by the medics and he held himself responsible for her death by not doing more to insist on more care. Then a documentary on the Tarsier that we were to see tomorrow.
Sunday December 14. Bohol Island,
We berthed at the port of Tagbilaran around 8 am and went ashore and boarded three buses.
Our bus took us to the tarsier sanctuary where we saw a brief video on these minute mammals, then had some refreshments including ginger juice, before entering the sanctuary in a group of about 15. We were super quiet and proceeded to 3 places where there was a tarsier in the trees: at the first two we gave our cameras or phones to an employee who took a picture of this minute mammal, similar to a lemur or a small monkey, hidden up high between the leaves. Most of the people could just see these this animal. At the third stop David took the photos and these were the best we had and he could see the mammal quite clearly.
We then walked the 10 minutes back to the bus and proceeded to the Church of the Lady of Guadalupe. This was a second oldest church on Bohol, but had been severely damaged in the earthquake of 2013 and was flooded almost every year. However it had been restored by 2021 by the Philippine government. We walked round the town square here where there was a statue of a Philippine national hero. It portrays Dr. Jose Rizal in an overcoat, holding a book to represent his seminal novels, Noli Me Tángere and El Filibusterismo, which played pivotal roles in the Philippine fight for independence from Spanish rule.
Then onto lunch on a boat on the River Loboc. The buffet here was quite reasonable and the place settings were quite elegant too. Once lunch started, the boat moved down river for 2 km and we stopped beside some dancers on the bank who executed their marvelous national dance, Tinikling, The dance requires precise, fast-paced footwork as dancers step in and out of the rhythmically clapping bamboo poles, mimicking the movement of a local bird called the tikling. This bird is known for its ability to walk between grass stems, run over tree branches, and dodge bamboo traps set by rice farmers.
Returning to base we proceeded to The Chocolate Hills, A geological formation consisting of about 1300 conical shaped hills. We climbed 214 steps, Chris having severe difficulties with the steps, to reach the viewing platform where The Hills stretched out in all directions with Paddy fields visible as well. During summer, the grass covering the hills turns brown making the hills chocolate coloured.
After this, it was a 75 minute ride in the coach back to the ship which we reached just before 4:30 pm. We showered and enjoyed a French martini cocktail before the 6:15 pm briefing and then a buffet Filipino supper, followed by a David Attenborough film on the deep oceans.
Monday, December 15. Cuatro Islas.
We went to shore at 10 am and went for a short wander . Then I foolishly decided to go in the water. It was easier than going in on the previous day but it was very wavy and I did not feel completely in control, but had a good relax in my noodle. The expedition staff and David helped me both in and out
In the afternoon we went to a different island,Igbo, the smallest of these four islands. Here we found some good red snapper on the beach . We then decided not to walk around the island anticlockwise and we continued clockwise, but the sun was far too hot to stay out in for very long. So once again I committed to a swim and, although I needed help from David and the expedition staff to get in and out, I really enjoyed it and was able to actually swim without the noodle so that was good.
We then caught the first Explorer back to the ship. At the 515 briefing we realise that we had an extra day on the ship and did not actually get off until Friday, having thought that we were getting off on Thursday. We enjoyed a Campari cocktail out on deck six before dinner, where there was a long discussion on what we were drinking! There was an after dinner film on life in the ocean for 15 minutes but we had to get the expedition staff up to increase the volume so that we could hear it.
Tuesday, December 16. Maripipi and Sambawan.
An early start to go ashore before 8.00 at Maripipi, a wet landing but not really wet and onto a rocky, stony beach. We walked up to the road and were allocated various forms of transport: including a police van, but ours was an open backed Jeep with room for four either side. We drove about 20 minutes anticlockwise to a beach where there were five weaving huts. Here we learnt how they harvested the shoots from the forest of a certain tree and then divide each stem into three, dry strips which they then softened and wove them into place mats and hats. There was also food available here and David really enjoyed himself eating the banana huge crisps with golden syrup on them: they were very yummy.
We then drove back in a clockwise direction to the other side of the landing place to a pottery village. Along the way school children and many others cheered us and wave flags and there were bands playing to. At the pottery village we saw how they collected the clay and processed it and then mowed it into pots on a wheel. Our friend, Gail, the proud owner of Elfie, had a good go at making a pot and we have a picture of this. Here too food was available and there were many coconuts to drink. We returned to the landing place by motor bike, David on the back of the bike and me in the back of the sidecar, having a very good view out of this, although feeling not too secure in my seat. The motorbike was very underpowered and we started off being pushed by two men up the hill to the main road but then proceeded under our own steam.
In the afternoon we visited a sister Island and David and I had one of the three kayaks for about 15 minutes, David doing all the work. Sam succeeded in getting me into the kayak and back out of it at the end. After the kayak, we walked the 160 odd steps up to a top of the hill with a good view over many little islands. We returned to the ship for an hour soon after15.00. We then went to the shore again for drinks and tapas on the island. During this time we enjoyed talking to the ship's second engineer who was from Sri Lanka. I really enjoyed the kangaroo meat croutons. Then dinner as usual out on the back deck, but without the noise of the engine and a short film on how the Polynesians used maps and stars to navigate the oceans.
Wednesday December 17 . At sea
A non-eventful day at sea. A talk by Stella at 9 am on the Lent traditions of the Filipinos who seemed to go.
We sat up on deck seven before a briefing by Dawn, then we all waited for 15 minutes for Dawn to turn up for her briefing session with hardly an apology. The briefing was followed by a presentation of Coral future cruises by Sam which I did not find very interesting.
After lunch there was a 30 minute video from Yogi on the Kimberley. Then back up to reading on deck seven until cocktail hour when we went to deck six and had a sailor's delight and chatted to an Australian couple. Dinner was again noisy and difficult to hear conversations. And then I decided against a 90 minute film as being too long using the binoculars.
Thursday December 18. Marinduque.
An early morning explorer ride to the island of Marinduque. This was a dry landing but somewhat hazardous as there was no way actually for the Explorer to tie up to and the sea level was considerably lower than the platform to which we had to climb. There was a lovely dance sequence for 10 minutes after a severe rain shower that left the dancers pretty drenched. There was also a double rainbow over the Coral Geographer. After this, we proceeded to drive clockwise around the island in several mini buses. We had a very good seat in the front of it. We stopped at a catholic church where there was a tradition of making masks for the lent period. These masks were made of wood to represent centurions in the death of Christ.
From here we returned to Boac where there was a 16th century picture at the church. From here we walked down to the town square where there were a dozen or two ancient Spanish houses. We received a coconut drink here and also some coconut snacks before venturing into the museum which was quite interesting. Then we wandered around the town streets where there were plenty of people employed to keep us on the straight and narrow. All the Filipinos we met here, and on our previous visits to islands, were super super friendly and so grateful to us for visiting their island.
When we got back to the ship we learnt that Maggie had fallen during our time on shore and have been taken to hospital with a broken wrist, but that she will be rejoining the ship later on in the afternoon. The ship repositioned to Natangco Island over lunch and at 2:30 pm we went out for a cruise round this with Sam, while others were snorkeling off the other Explorer. During the course of the afternoon I got the two suitcases just about packed and finished these after dinner. At 5 pm there was a captains farewell drink plus a very well documented video of our 16 nights aboard the geographer: a much better product than anything ever produced by Silversea. Then dinner outside as usual followed by a short speech from Aaron and on what the procedure was to be in the morning.
Friday, December 19.. Manila to Kuala Lumpur.
A frustrating day. Breakfast was at 6:30 and we thought we were going to disembark between 8.15 and 8.30, but they wanted to make up our bed by 7:20 which was contrary to what they had said. We had been told that we could have the room until we left. So this was not a good start and I complain to Tony one of the purser's team but it seemed to be lost on her. Yes we could stay in the room but had to have it tidy enough for the chambermaids to come in!
We were then called off by 8 am and got to the airport before 9 A.m. Here we found that the cases should’ve been loaded into the bus according to which terminal people were flying from, but nothing as sensible as this! We were told that our desk opened at 10 and queued up there for 50 minutes from 10 am only to be told that that desk was for the 13.00. flight and that they had no storage for suitcases. They told us that we would have to come back at 2 pm, but we could come back to the priority business class desk. We protested at this and eventually were told that the suitcases could be kept in the supervisor’s office until 2 pm. This did not seem a terrific advantage but okay was a slight one and we went off and sat in one of the few seats near the doors for another three hours and it was mighty cold and we had no coats or anything to keep warm. So at 2 pm, we went back to the business desk and found the supervisor with our suitcases and he was surprised to see us: the main object of his offer to keep the suitcases was apparently that we could go through security and onto the other side of the airport but we had not understood this. Still we thanked him kindly.
Then onto a 50 minute queue for passport control and then, surprisingly, quickly through security. We then went into a café and had a cold drink and a bun to reward ourselves for the misery of the morning. And lo and behold another the queue to order in the café. And quite fortuitously found Gail and her husband, the adoptive parents of Elfie, just in front of us in the queue. They were on their way back to Australia. And later on we met another lady from the ship who was travelling on the same plane to Kuala Lumpur as us and then going on to Sydney.
The 517.20 flight to Kuala Lumpur was delayed but only by about half an hour and we got in to KL on schedule around 9:30 pm. We were in the back row of the plane,which had no reclining seats, but we managed to change to the row in front of us and didn’t have anybody on the third seat so that was good and the meal was edible with some wine as well. At KL we took the train to the satellite where we found our Sama Sama Hotel and there we had a perfectly adequate room and enjoyed an Ovaltine and half a roll before turning in for the night.
Saturday December 20. Kuala Lumpur to Sri Lanka.
A much better day today. We had an Ovaltine and a biscuit in our hotel room and set out at 7:30 am for boarding at 7:50 am. The gate was close to our hotel. The flight to Colombo took just 3 1/2 hours and we had a good chat with the gentleman who was sitting in 8A who was a DJ, a French citizen living in the US on a visa, and working shows on a nightly basis all around the world - what a lifestyle. He had done a show in Kuala Lumpur the previous night, was doing one in Colombo to night and then onto Bali for the following night. And he travelled with a team of about five people with his instruments.
So we landed in Colombo at 10 am, they’re being a 2 1/2 time difference between the two countries. Here David got out some local money at an ATM and we then met up with our guide who, incidentally, was called DJ. He spoke good English and was our driver as well and will be with us for the rest of our 12 days here. It took about two hours to drive to Galle, where we were left at the Hotel Galle Fort. Our room was a very large duplex with the living space and bathroom downstairs and a four poster bed up the most creaky staircase we have ever known.
I went for a swim in the delightful pool and then we had an hours walk round the fort, walking along part of the wall, and then through the 16th century Dutch built town where there were the most architecturally agreeable houses. We got tempted at the English bakery and had a mango shake and a tiramisu slice. Then back to the room for a while before meeting up again with DJ for another walk along more of the wall to the clock tower before we headed back into the town as it was raining lightly. Then we left DJ to walk the rest of the distance by ourselves but the heavens opened and we took shelter eventually in the English church. Here we stayed for over an hour and there was no respite in the rain so eventually we decided to make a dash for it and arrived back somewhat wet. After half an hour back in our room, there was some respite in the rain and we went out, this time with an umbrella, to Chambers, a restaurant with good reviews in Tripadvisor and not more than 100 m away. We thoroughly enjoyed a meal there beetroot and feta cheese with bread followed by a seafood platter, washed down with 2 mango smoothies..
Sunday, December 21. Galle to Tangalle.
We had a delightful un rushed breakfast overlooking the pool just before 8 am and then went for a short walk, up to the English Church where we had sheltered the previous night, and then round the block. Then we packed up and were ready for a 9:30 am start.
We were driven to a cinnamon plantation about 30 minutes out of town. Here we had a 30 minute walk along the road and tracks to view the cinnamon plants – quite intriguing. Once back at the owners farm we were shown how they scrape the bark off the pieces of wood collected that day and then shape them into various size cinnamon sticks to be dried overhead for several days. After this we went across to the kitchen where we were introduced to the owner‘s wife who took us round her vegetable garden and collected okra, green pepper, and various herbs. She took these to the chefs table, where she chopped the okra with garlic and onions and multiple herbs and powders. All this took a considerable time and there was nothing much to see for about half an hour whilst various things were cooking in the background over a fire of discarded cinnamon wood. We then received a feast of 10 to 12 dishes on the table including rice, lentils, spinach, okra, tapioca, prawns, tuna. And quite surprisingly I really enjoyed it all except for perhaps the lentils which were quite spicy. This was followed by a buffalo yogurt. So we left this at about 1:30 pm after an embarrassing interlude when it was suggested that we should tip the family involved.
The drive to Tangalle was only another hour. First along a really narrow road and then motorway. At the Last House Hotel we were showed into our ground floor suite, one of just six rooms in the hotel. The hotel was built as a private house by Geoffrey Bawa, who had built the Colombo parliament house amongst others. This house was the last he built before his death, hence its name. The inside of our suite and the public rooms were truly delightful, all a continuation of one another, but the outside of the building was certainly no architectural triumph in our opinion. We settled in and then went for a walk along the beach passing other small hotels and many fishing boats, some of them seemingly haven’t been abandoned since the 2004 tsunami. More reading and then a swim in the large pool which was very pleasant. At 7 pm, we went across to the main building and had one of the houses cocktails. We sat on a sofa overlooking the lawns and at one stage had a long chat with the manager. Then back to the room for a light snack before turning in for the night.
Monday, December 22. Tangalle
David looked up his web site for 1973 and discovered that we had in fact stayed at the Galle Fort Hotel then but neither of us had recognised anything about it. A relaxing day on the Wild Frontiers itinerary!. We woke up early and I ventured out to see if there was a sunrise but there was not. I then went for a swim before going to breakfast about 8:30 am. DJ picked us up at 10 am and took us into the Tangalle harbour where the fishing boats came back to port every morning, and sold their fish. The boats were very colourful but there was not actually much fish being sold.
Then back to the hotel for the rest of the day, mainly sitting on the patio outside our room look towards the beach. We went for a walk along the beach again. A colourful fishing boat was being dragged into the water by 10 men. On our return we sat and enjoyed a mango and passion, and a coconut and banana milkshake. I had another swim and then we had some fruit on our patio before looking at a video of the Amazing Hotel that we are to stay at for the next two days. This was one of the series that Rob Ryder and Monica had visited in the TV programme of that name.
We had been asked by one of the staff if we wanted lobster for dinner and when we declined, they talked about fish and the soup that we said we didn’t eat soup. When we went across for a drink before dinner we assumed that they would produce a menu, but none came. So after sitting with our drink for half an hour, we went to a table set out on the lawn, and waited for them to produce the menu. Then followed a confusing period of us saying we still wanted to see a menu which eventually appeared and we chose one of the two fish dishes on it. But no food appeared for well over half an hour and we left the table and took our drinks back to where we had sat previously. At this point the manager appeared and apologised profoundly perhaps being kept waiting so long for some food and offered us a complimentary meal which would appear within five minutes. I had also asked for a very small portion, but the normal size appeared. However the fish was really good,so I did not mind too much but I could’ve done without their pudding. Anyway, this scenario kept us occupied for two hours of the evening so we did not end up in bed too early.
Tuesday December 23. Tangalle to Ceylon Tea Trails Hotel.
An energetic swim at around 7 am and then breakfast at 8:15. Having already done most of the packing, we left the hotel at 9:30 for the five hour drive up into the hills. At first this was a long motorway but then became much more interesting once we got into the mountains. It was just tea, tea and tea as far as the eyes could see. We arrived at the Norwood bungalow of the Ceylon Tea Trails Hotel. The hotel was spread out in five bungalows and over a large distance involving at least 12 km between bungalows. The previous evening we had viewed the BBC show Amazing Hotels with Rob Rinder and Monica, who had visited this hotel three years previously and produced a one hour show about it . And we watched it again once we arrived. We felt they had rather gone overboard in the adulation of it.
Our welcome was not over abundant but the room was very pleasant and we had a very enjoyable cream tea soon after 4 pm out on the terrace. This bungalow had just six rooms, but they had managed to cram in a group of six a group of five and 2 x 2 including us. After tea we went for an hours walk along some of the trails Observing local women collecting firewood from where the tea plants had been pruned and carrying this wood back to their villages: unfortunately one of them was begging as she went along. Once back at the hotel we had a drink and sat out on the terrace with this and also receive some tapas eventually.
I went for a lovely swim in the largest pool I’ve seen for many a year and then we found a lovely warm Jacuzzi overlooking beautiful views and tea plants
We went down to dinner at 7:30 pm as we had booked and found two large groups beside the two fires. So we were ushered into two chairs in a dark row,which have been placed to observe a carol service which nobody had told us about. This was away from any of the fires. We objected to this and went outside again and eventually moved to another sofa on the other side of the hotel and were shown the stars by the hotel manager, who was very apologetic about the fact that we have been made to feel second class citizens. We eventually sat down for dinner well after 8:30 pm after a very enjoyable carol service with six local women and two clergyman, one of whom gave a moving speech about the hardships that Sri Lankan had endured. The meal itself was excellent with four courses each accompanied by a wee glass of a different tea. The two larger groups have been set up outside and two twos were in the central room. By moving the position of our place settings we had a fairly nice view of the Christmas tree and the roaring fire, which was still a light! After dinner we sat by a resurrected fire, which by then had gone out, and David relit it. I had a glass of port. And the manager came along and asked us if we would like to go to Christmas mass at the local Anglican Church at 8 am on Christmas Day, to make up for our problems. A nice gesture
Wednesday December 24. Norwood Bungalow, Ceylon Tea Trails.
We had a pleasant breakfast outside, including a Sri Lankan one for David . He could not quite eat it all as there were being so many different things. But it was very, very good.
We left at 9:30 in a hotel minivan for the tea factory tour. We thought this tea factory was just down the road but that was a tea factory belonging into a different estate and the one we were going to was some 30 to 40 minutes away down by the lake. The tour there started at 10:30 am and there were about 12 of us in total. At first we could not understand a word of what the guide was telling us, but we gradually became accustomed to his Indian accent. At the end of the tour we had the chance to sample various teas and we left knowing a bit more about ceylon tea than we had beforehand. From the factory we walked for 1+ kilometres to the Castlereagh bungalow, one of the five bungalows comprising Ceylon Tea Trails. We had had to insist on having lunch there as Norwood had wanted us to come back to lunch in that bungalow. Their pool that was very much smaller, but more agreeable really in that I felt I could do several lengths with not too much effort and it was not too cold. After this we had a very pleasant lunch of soup , fish and banana canella. Transport eventually turned up to take us back to Norwood where we read for a while before enjoying the afternoon tea with just a savoury contributions, nothing sweet.
Around five I went for a swim in the huge pool and then for a lovely Jacuzzi and then we read again in the room till around seven. We had our photos taken by the Christmas tree to send out as a Christmas greeting and then sat by the fire talking to the Americans. I was quite tired and we sat down for dinner at 7:30 but obviously the hotel would’ve preferred that we didn’t and it was gone 10 before dinner was actually finished as they kept slowing us down. In addition, the scallops were not scallops and we were served lobster bisque instead of chestnut soup, so, all in all it was not such a successful meal as the previous night. But the brandy Christmas pudding was really really good., Although David would have preferred more brandy butter.
Father Christmas visited during the time we were having dinner, much to the boys delight. And he gave them some sweets. They had also enjoyed the colourful crackers on the table even though these contained virtually nothing, not even a hat.
Then a glass of Port in front of the fire for a few minutes before returning to the room and doing most of the packing as we were to be off early for the church tomorrow morning.
Thursday December 25 . Christmas Day. Ceylon Tea Trails to Kandy.
We attended the Anglican Church, Christchurch, leaving the hotel at 7:30 for an 8 o’clock mass as they called it . The church, built in 1870s, was small and charming and there was a congregation of about 40 to 50 people there. We were the only foreigners and the priest was very pleased to see us. We returned to the hotel by 9:30 am we enjoyed our breakfast outside although it was a tad chilly but they lit one of their gas heaters for us.
DJ picked us up at 11 am And it was an almost 3 hour drive to Kandy during which I became very tired and slightly sick. We passed through several towns which have been inundated by floodwater on November 23 with up to 8 to 10 feet of water and we could see the ruins of some of these properties plus many landslides. We arrived at the hotel and we were shown into a room which was very dark inside and even David felt he could not survive there. A pleasant receptionist said she would investigate the possibility of another room and came back with an assistant manager who seemed insulted that we should find his room too dark and he tried to bully us into staying there. But eventually he conceded that he did have a room upstairs and David looked at that and decided it would be infinitely better, as indeed it was as it had two extra windows which made all the difference. But the whole experience left a sour taste in our mouth. Having been almost asleep on arrival I woke up during this episode and decided not to have a nap, but to go for a swim which I did.
And then we set off again with DJ at 4 pm driving around the lake of Kandy. Going first to a cultural dance show in a large local theatre. There were about 15 different dances and some of these were quite spectacular with juggling tricks, as well as spectacular costumes and face masks. The grand finale was walking on fire.
Then we walked to the nearby Temple of the Tooth, this supposedly housing a genuine tooth from Buddha. This was really crowded and we had to queue up for a long time to be able to pass the inner sanctum in which the tooth was housed. This was only on show for about 20 minutes twice a day but our timing was immaculate and we were the last few groups to get to see it.
Back in the hotel we got changed and went for our pre-order dinner at 8 pm. We were unimpressed by this, especially a stir fry of fish which we felt have been cooked in advance and was certainly far from sizzling. So we had a long chat with the manager who was very agreeable and I do not think we will suffer from lack of service for the rest of our day. After dinner we sat in the two armchairs outside our room and I dictated this diary and then read for a while.
Friday, December.26. Kandy.
We were awake early and had a cup of coffee and listened to the radio. Then I went for a swim before breakfast which was really refreshing, and the sunshine was falling at right angles to the pool which was good for swimming. Breakfast was fine, good fruit and juice and then granola and yogurt for David and eggs Benedict for me.
We left the hotel at 10 am with DJ and we were driven to the Botanical Gardens. Here we walked for 90 minutes which was quite pleasant but nothing really outstanding and the orchids were not in the right season for flowering. At the end of our walk somebody pushed us off the path and David slipped on some really slimy mud which covered the bottom of his trousers, his shoes and my shoes and socks. Luckily there was a tap near the footpath and we were able to unzip the bottom of his trousers, wash his feet and wash the bottom part of the trousers under the tap. They had to dry in the car for the next few hours We then drove to a vantage point overlooking the town with the Temple of the Tooth and Anglican church and a large lake which have been there since the 12th century.
Then on to a wood carving venue which we thought would just be men carving masks but it was really a wholesaler who sold carving of elephants. We were shown the different sorts of wood used in the carving. Also how they used natural colours, scraping a special wood, adding the scrapings to water. Then by adding metal to the brew the colour would change. They could get a wide range of completely different colours using basic chemistry. Some of the elephants were taller than I am and some were made of Ebony. We were left to wander in the huge showroom but nothing had a price on it just a code. I particularly liked the pastel painted elephants. While David apparently liked the six different types of mask: they were made out of a very light wood. So they was nothing like the masks that were carved for centurions in the Philippines.
Our final stop was a Sapphire shop where we were shown a video on how the stones were mined in really primitive, dangerous conditions. We then were shown craftsman polishing the gems and the setting them in gold or silver according to a design sheet. The salesman tried to sell us something but failed miserably! We were back at the hotel by 2 pm and spent the afternoon lazing and swimming.
Once again we were asked to choose our meal around 5 pm but David refused saying that if we gave an order it would be cooked in advance like yesterday; and they accepted this. When it got dark, we took a glass of whiskey round to the large roof area overlooking the pool and this was most pleasant. David ordered a curry for supper and I had lentil soup and a roti : but this was nothing like what I expected - it was a spicy rice pile accompanied by very hot, spicy chicken, which certainly looked and had the consistency of beef. But the waiter insisted it was chicken! Luckily David had some plain rice with his curry and I could eat this with an egg that was balanced on top of my spiced rice. After dinner we sat outside our room and enjoyed the pleasant night light.
Saturday, December 27. Kandy to Wild Grasses Hotel.
After a good breakfast we were picked up by DJ before 9 am and spent about 90 minutes travelling to a spice garden. The spice garden was not over exciting and the person who showed us around had obviously shown far too many people around and gabbled and was largely unintelligible. There was a shop that sold the 32 products that they produced from their spices to cure all kinds of illnesses, and the man claimed that 65% of Sri Lankan used these cures rather than traditional big Pharma drugs.
Travelling on, we stopped at Dabulla Temple and caves. We hat to climb 400 odd steps to reach the caves that contained the Buddha statues. These were well worth the climb as the Buddhas carved in the five caves were truly impressive. It is a World Heritage site. Coming down the stairs was almost more difficult than going up them.
Then it was just a half hour drive to Wild Grasses Hotel which was truly at the end of a road. We were driven in a clapped out golf buggy to our villa, Nightjar, which was a large duplex building with the bedroom upstairs and everything else downstairs, not exactly ideal for golden oldies, especially as the stairs had no banister. We settled in and then went to the swimming pool which was five minutes walk away, but not as far as we thought it was. I had just got changed and got into the pool when the heavens opened so I got out within a length and sheltered under the changing room building for awhile and eventually managed to get onto the sun umbrella. David was sitting under. Within 20 minutes, the rain stopped and I then had a pleasant swim and got changed again there to walk back to our villa.
Here I made some tea and we had some snacks with it for a late lunch. After this a 30 minute siesta before going out for a walk up to reception and then around the houses near reception. Then we had one of our free bottles of whiskey which hardly contained any whiskey at all, but it was so very enjoyable with some peanut butterflies. This was after we had both used the outside shower as there was not one in the bathroom itself. At 7:30, we were picked up by the golf buggy again and taken up to reception and a dinner which we had had to order on our arrival. We indulged in the cocktail of the day and both enjoyed our dinner, a shared "chefs salad" followed by King Fish for me and prawns for David, both well cooked. And we followed this an excellent Buffalo Curd with Treacle. We asked for some fly spray for the room, but what we got was two men with seemingly a spray and dustpan and brushes who just wanted to tackle where there were a lot of midges, so we will see how we survive the night.
Sunday December 28. Wild Grasses Hotel. Second Kingdon Site & Elephant Safari
A trip to the second kingdom in the morning and a so called elephant Safari in the afternoon. We were picked up by DJ after a somewhat rushed breakfast. Our service was so slow and then it was a five minute walk or more back to the room, and 5 more back again. At 9 am we drove to the granite rock called Sigiriya, where it was possible to climb 1200 steps to get to the flat top platform. But Chris decided that this number of steps was not for her, so we just stopped and took photos of it
We then drove on to the ruins of the second kingdom at Polonnaruwa:, which became the capital after Anuradhapura's fall in 993 AD, and was strategically chosen for defence and resources. Most of these ruins were from near the end of the 12th century, We saw various monasteries there and various Buddha statues.
Then we drove to the Eco Reserve where we were to have a jeep tour to see the elephants. We arrived there just on 2 pm and transferred effortlessly and efficiently into a jeep with just us, DJ and the driver. But then turned into the forest following a long line of jeeps. Our first stop was to look at three elephants surrounded by 12, or more, jeeps.How these jeeps could back themselves out of impossible positions, I have no idea. Then onwards to a group of 5 elephants surrounded by 25 jeeps. One of the posse of jeeps viewing the elephants got stuck in the mud and had to be winched out. During our travels in the park, we saw a peacock and a crested Eagle, but nothing else. We felt that the Sri Lankan government should limit the number of jeeps that have permits to go into this area relatively sparsely populated by elephants.
Back at the hotel we had a cup of tea and a snack before I went for a swim. Before this we had asked for the path to the lake, but this was not available to us without a guide and we gave up on it even though we got a bit nearer the lake than we had from our own chalet. We walked through the forest to the main building for dinner around 7:15 pm, waited sometime before anybody took our order for a cocktail, but then had a very pleasant meal.
Monday December 29 . Wild Grasses Hotel to Uga Ulagalla
Northwards to the northern department of Sri Lanka and the site of the first Kingdom. We had a leisurely breakfast and then had the suitcases picked up at nine. We then drove for over an hour to the monasteries and temples at the first Kingdom, which was from from the 5th to the eighth century AD. These were spread over a very large area which was very scenic. DJ had hurt himself two days earlier and was still limping, so we did most of the explorations by ourselves, following his directions. En route, we were stopped by the traffic police who accused DJ of having driven over a white line, but he was adamant that he had not. His practically new car, had a video evidence of what had indeed happened and he would download this once he got to Colombo in a few days to challenge the corrupt police on their judgment and so avoid the Rs.5000 fine.
After visiting many temples, stupas, gold statues and moon statues, moonstone statues, we left the main section of the ruins and drove to another temple outside the city limits. Here that was a beautifully carved gold statue of two lovers and we climbed up under rocks where we got a splendid view over the lake below its Stupas.
We arrived at the new hotel at 3 pm and David was stunned to be asked to sign a waiver absolving the hotel if it caused our death by gross negligence. Surely Wild Frontiers will take up this issue with the hotel. Ironically there was a welcome ceremony after this contra temps including ringing several bells three times and then having our photo taken with them. We were then shown to villa 23 and this was a real palace consisting of large bathroom, dressing area, bedroom, entrance hall, living room and another bathroom. Also a tiny private pool. We settled in and then had a coffee and some bits for lunch. After this we walked back to reception which was a 15 minute walk.
There way inquired about the dinner menus as we were just on bed and breakfast. David was very keen on having our second dinner, tomorrow night in the Paddy fields and I think I will agree. He had a long conversation with the wee receptionist who told him that it was" only" $110., to which he replied that he didn’t know about her, but $110 was a lot of money to him!. We then stopped at the main, superb swimming pool, easily the best of those encountered in Sri Lanka, for Chris to enjoy a swim. Them back to the chalet to enjoy a whiskey.
A buggy collected us from our room, as it was impossible to walk along the drives in the dark. We had a really pleasant supper in the upstairs restaurant here. The restaurant manager was really impressed by the boys and had to be forced away from our table! Once back in the chalet I had a swim in our outdoor pool which was fun.
Tuesday December 30. Hotel Uga Ulagalla
We had a leisurely morning starting with a swim in our own outdoor pool and then a coffee before going up to breakfast about 9 am. This was very good, but far too much as usual. After this I went for a swim in a gorgeous large pool and we then walked back a different way to the chalet getting there after 11 am and I spent 90 minutes sending my photos to David’s email, and reading.
Having walked the delightful walk to reception which took about 15 minutes, we were picked up, by DJ at 1pm and driven to the Leopard Den which was 75 minutes away. Once we were transferred to a jeep, it took six but only had us in it. A problem getting into the Park as there was a power cut and they could not issue the entry tickets without a computer. So we had to wait 20 to 30 minutes before we could enter the park. Then we had a pleasant two hour Drive, spotting deer, several types of stalk, buffalo, two tortoises and various other birds before the driver suddenly set off at breakneck speed. DJ saying that were exciting things ahead. But eventually we learnt that this was just a sloth bear which we would not find particularly exciting at all: and moreover it had disappeared by the time we got there. So there was now an extra 40 minutes or so to get back to the gate which we did not reach until gone six. We had arranged to be picked up from our chalet at 6:55 for their special dinner in the rice paddies. So DJ had to phone the hotel to postpone our booking to a 7.20 buggy from the hotel to our cabin and then, five minutes later from the chalet to the rice Paddy restaurant. To our annoyance, the buggy disappeared when we re-emerged five minutes later and we had to ring reception to get another one.
We eventually arrived at a very pleasant layout with just 18 people on five tables. We were greeted by a lady whose English we did not understand very well, but she showed us the kitchen where they were doing the cooking. We were offered a very small cocktail and then followed the starter which was just three different types of crisps, home baked of course and a watery sauce. Then there was quite a long wait until the main course which was 18 bowls of different things, which hardly fitted on our small table. Personally I would’ve preferred three bowls arriving every 15 minutes or so, than being confronted by this huge array. But David tackled the many dishes. They were mainly too hot for me but they did produce some chicken that was not too spicy. The pudding was good, just bowls of Buffalo yogurt, fruit, and a rice cake, the meal was concluded with a pleasant ginger tea. Then back to the room, by which time it was 10.20, to pack ready for the morning. No time for a swim.
Wednesday December 31. Hotel Uga Ulagalla to Colombo.
Having just about completed the packing the previous night we got up at seven and had a cup of coffee and then walked up to the hotel around 7.45. Here I had a lovely last swim and then went into breakfast, which was interrupted by a monkey stealing a piece of toast from our table but left the boys behind. a waiter had wanted to see the boys again otherwise they would’ve stayed in their bag. I had a chat with a nice manageress and the receptionist about the previous evening’s dinner And when we came to leave, we found that we had only been charged for one of the dinners. We received a photo of ourselves in front of the bells system and had more photos taken with the manageress and the boys before leaving at 9:20 am.
After about an hour, we left the road to visit the largest Buddha statue in Sri Lanka. We had previously seen a smaller reproduction of this at a roadside site. However we came to a ford, where the water looke deep and had a strong current. David advised DJ not to progress as water might have entered the engine. Also we had to return along this road, so the volume of water might have increased even more before our return. So we turned round and later we saw how the water was gushing out of the lake at a considerable rate. I had had a good 30 minutes sleep in the car, making up for my wakefulness of the previous night. It was then about a four hour drive to Colombo and this was quite uneventful, part of it along motorway practically deserted we reached our hotel in the centre of Colombo around 2:15 pm. It was a charming colonial bungalow with just seven rooms and we had one of the best two of them, situated on the first floor overlooking the courtyard and pool. We had some difficulty obtaining Wi-Fi but eventually got some, although not a perfect quality. We sat downstairs beside the pool and after about 30 minutes I had a swim and dried off down there, having washed my hair around six. We had the last of our Taiwanese whiskey and a snack, being subjected to quite loud music, presumably in anticipation of midnight tonight which we will not be participating in. Then down to dinner which was a set menu around 7.30.
After a pleasant meal, although not actually very good food, but it was enhanced by two musicians with saxophones singing old songs and parading on the lawn at a turn down volume, we retired to bed and went to sleep about 10.30. But we were woken up within an hour with the music incredibly loud underneath our window. We listened to Old Lang Sang, it’s a long way to Tipperary and John Brown's Body amongst others until gone 1230.
Thursday January 1 2026. Colombo to Valencia and home.
Chris soon got back to sleep but David had great difficulty and woke up with the 7:30 alarm feeling like a wreck. So was not impressed to be greeted by Happy New Year by all the staff as we went into breakfast. The manager apologised profusely but this did not placate David. We went out at 9:30 am fearing the worst! DJ drove us into the centre of town and there we met up with Chanelle, a very pleasant 30 ish lady who spoke excellent English and we had a most enjoyable two hours with her discussing numerous things as well as the history of Colombo. We saw the old Fort built by the Portuguese and Dutch and some very old English architecture, including the first Department store here, Cargils, which opened around 1860. We ended up in one of the first hotels which is now run by the government and here we had a lime juice soda overlooking the port . Chanelle informed us that this was the port taken over by the Chinese not so long ago.
We got back to the hotel before one and then had five hours with our iPads and Chris having two swims before having a bite to eat on our pleasant balcony and leaving for the airport at 6 pm. We were informed that it took an hour to the airport and here we would have, and we’re probably need, three hours to clear before boarding our flight to Istanbul at 10 pm. A nine hour flight followed by four hours in the pleasant Turkish Airways lounge in Istanbul before continuing, business class, to Valencia.