The Jesuit missions in Paraguay are called " Jesuit reduction ", a type of settlement for indigenous people created by the Jesuits during the 17th and 18th centuries. The strategy of the Spanish Empire was to gather native populations into centres called "Indian reductions" (reducciones de indios), in order to Christianize, tax, and govern them more efficiently. The Jesuit interpretation of this strategy was implemented primarily in an area that corresponds to modern-day Paraguay amongst the Tupi-Guarani peoples. Later reductions were extended into areas that now form part of Argentina, Brazil, and Bolivia.
To understand the impetus behind these Jesuit efforts, one must take into account the widespread Catholic belief about baptism, current at that time, that the only route to salvation was through baptism into the Church. From this came the heroic efforts of missionaries to the detriment of native cultures. Jesuit reductions were different from the reductions in other regions because the indigenous people (Indians) were expected to convert to Christianity but not necessarily adopt European values and lifestyles. Also, unlike the Patronato Real system of missionaries accompanying conquistadores in search of gold in Central America, here it was in order to remain free from exploitation that the indigenous peoples were sequestered. Under the leadership of both the Jesuits and native caciques, the reductions achieved a high degree of autonomy within the Spanish colonial empire. With the use of the native Indian labour, the reductions became economically successful. When their existence was threatened by the incursions of Bandeirante slave traders, Indian militia were created that fought effectively against these Portuguese colonists. The resistance by the Jesuit reductions to slave raids, as well as their high degree of autonomy and economic success, have been cited as contributing factors to the expulsion of the Jesuits from the Americas in 1767.
The Jesuits, only formally founded in 1540, were relatively late - from about 1570 - arrivals in the New World,, especially compared to the Dominicans and Franciscans, and therefore had to look to the frontiers of colonization for mission areas. The Jesuit reductions originated in the early seventeenth century when Bishop Lizarraga asked for missionaries for Paraguay. In 1609, acting under instructions from Phillip III, the Spanish governor of Asunción made a deal with the Jesuit Provincial /leader of Paraguay. The Jesuits agreed to set up hamlets at strategic points along the Paraná river, that were populated with Indians and maintained a separation from Spanish towns. The Jesuits were to "enjoy a tax holiday for ten years" which extended longer. This mission strategy continued for 150 years until the Jesuits were expelled in 1767. In 1609 three Jesuits began the first mission in San Ignacio Guazú. In the next 25 years, 15 missions were founded in the province of Guayrá. But since some of these were within the Portuguese area they were subjected to frequent destructive raids by Bandeirantes of São Paulo to enslave the Indians. In 1631 most of the reductions moved west into Uruguay which was under Spanish jurisdiction, in some cases to be re-opened from the 1680s onwards. The missions also secured the Spanish Crown's permission, and some arms, to raise militias of Indians to defend the reductions against raids. The bandeirantes followed the reductions into Spanish territory and in 1641 the Indian militia stopped them at Mbororé. The militias could number as many as 4,000 troops and their cavalry was especially effective, wearing European-style uniforms and carrying bows and arrows as well as muskets.
The reductions came to be considered a threat by the secular authorities and were caught up in the growing attack on the Jesuits in Europe for unrelated reasons. The economic success of the reductions, which was considerable although not as great as often described, combined with the Jesuits' independence, became a cause of fear. Their intriguing story has continued to be the subject of some romanticizing, as in the film The Mission (1986) whose story relates to the events of the 1750s shown on a miniature scale. When the Jesuits were expelled from the Spanish realm in 1767, the reductions slowly died out, becoming victims of slave raids or being absorbed into European society. Some of the reductions have continued to be inhabited as towns while most have been abandoned and remain only as ruins.
At the height of the reductions there were around 40 different communities that were home to as many as 150,000 Indians, most of whom were Guaraní, Tupi and Chiquitos. Reductions were laid out according to a standardised plan: the main buildings, like the church, college and churchyard, were concentrated around a wide square, with houses facing the other three sides. Each village also provided a house for widows, a hospital, and several warehouses. In the centre of the square there was a cross and a statue of the mission's patron saint. The reductions were ruled by indigenous chiefs who served as the reductions' governors, but were controlled by the Jesuits. There was a minimum of two Jesuits in a reduction, with more for larger ones. The social organization of the reductions has often been described as extremely efficient; most were self-supporting and even produced surpluses of goods, which they traded to outside communities, which laid the foundation of the belief that Jesuits were guarding immense riches acquired through Indian labour.
Trinidad
The Jesuit Mission of La Santísima Trinidad de Paraná is located in the Itapúa Department, Paraguay, and it's religious mission was founded by the Jesuit missioners during the colonization of South America in the 17th century. The religious mission was created in 1609 and developed for 150 years. Declared World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in 1993.
When they arrived there, the first thing they did was to form towns that were self-sufficient in the areas inhabited by the natives and a study of the Guaraní language they spoke to make a writing structure (because the Guaraní people did not write their language). The missionaries not only imparted knowledge about religion, but also determined the rules of public order, culture, education and society, which had great influence in the later development of Paraguay. The natives, who were nomads and were not used to a structured life, found themselves gathered up into small communities- the missions - in the forest. In the Jesuit Missions were grouped 2000 or 3000 natives
The Santísima Trinidad del Paraná Mission is considered the biggest of all the missions. This mission has the biggest built temple among all the Jesuit Missions, with an altar carved in a single piece stone. It has a Central Square, the town’s meeting place, and a museum, located in the old sacristy.
We went there during the day, and on hearing that the Luz y Sonido ran every night, returned that night to see it. The light show was interesting but a little spoilt by a busload of young children who made a lot of noise while the guide was talking
They say that these Jesuit ruins are the least visited of all the global World Heritage sights, and I can believe that. Apart from the local group at the light show, we did not see more than a total of two dozen people in all the 3 reductions that we visited
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Jesus
Jesús de Tavarangue Ruins are some 15 minutes drive from Trinidad, further away from the main road. The church of the Reducción de Jesús was in the process of being built at the time that the Jesuits were expelled from Río de la Plata Province. It would have been one of the biggest churches of that time, with a central structure of 70 meters long and 24 meters wide. It would have been a replica of the Sanctuary of Loyola, in Spain. The doors of access, three located in the front, are very impressive. UNESCO declared it Cultural Patrimony of Humankind in 1993. It is considered one of the most important edifications of the 30 Jesuits towns in the region. The stone pulpit, the friezes of angels, the rose shaped carved stone in the lintels in the doors and the bell tower stand out in its architecture. The ruins of these missions show a way of life and education marked by its own singular style.
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San Cosme & San Damien
The mission at San Cosme and San Damian is located about 50 kilometres to the west of Encarnación . The Jesuits named the mission after twin brothers and saints believed to have healing powers so they would protect the Indians from diseases, many of them illnesses introduced by Europeans and for which the natives lacked immunity.
The Jesuit reductions of San Cosme y Damián moved several times, until it established where it is today. The main church burned in 1900 but was restored in 1977 and there are a lot sacral figures (rescued and restored from that time). The father Buenaventura Suarez (scientist, physicist and mathematician) came to San Cosme y Damian in 1703 and helped the Indians build a telescope and observatory; he was a lover of cosmology and his advanced knowledge allowed the construction of the Sun Dial, which is actually preserved to this day in situ.
It was a bit difficult finding the ruins: having reached the small town the road ran out, and we had to go a few kms further on dirt roads lacking signs. Even once we found the ruins, the guard had to be summoned from his slumbers to let us in. They have even fewer visitors than Trinidad or Jesus, and one is probably talking about less than 10 visitors per day. The site, though not as large as Trinidad, has the advantage of having the original church roofed and restored (complete with a chair that pope sat on during his recent visit to Paraguay). Indeed it is used as the local parish church today.
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Yerba Mata and its production
The first actual plantations of yerba mate date from the Jesuits. Ever since the Jesuits' departure, efforts have been made to plant yerba mate elsewhere, though scientists have concluded the finicky shrub will grow only in locations with iron-rich, acidic soil and a semi-tropical climate with at least 1,500 millimeters of rain per year. In the entire world, such conditions are found only in the Brazilian states of Santa Catalina and Rio Grande de Sul, in Paraguay's Itapua region, and in Argentina's Misiones and Corrientes provinces.
We visited the Selecta yerba mate factory in Bella Vista. I thought that it was fascinating to get the story behind the brew that we have seen many people drinking throughout South America. Yerba mate leaves contain caffeine and also contain related xanthine alkaloids and are harvested commercially. It is the national drink of Paraguay, and one sees locals invariably carrying their flask of hot water with them through the day in order to have regular brew ups. Oddly mate drinking does not really seem to have spread outside Latin America. The production process is fairly straightforward, indeed basic. The yerba mate bushes are kept trimmed low, and complete branches are picked at harvest, rather than just the leaves. The picked branches are dried, then ground and packed.
The infusion, called mate, is prepared by filling a container, typically a gourd, up to three-quarters full with dry leaves (and twigs) of the mate plant, and filling it up with water at a temperature of 70–80 °C , hot but not boiling. The mate may be prepared with cold water (in which case they call the drink tereré). Drinking mate with friends through a metal straw (a bombilla in Spanish), refilling and passing to the next person after finishing the few mouthfuls of beverage, is a common social practice. The amount of the herb used to prepare the infusion is much greater than that used for tea and other beverages, accounting for the large weight used. The flavour of brewed mate resembles an infusion of vegetables, herbs, grass and is reminiscent of some varieties of green tea. The flavour becomes bitter if steeped in boiling water. Flavoured mate is also sold, in which the mate leaves are blended with other herbs (such as peppermint) or citrus rind. A toasted version of mate, known as mate cocido is sold in teabags and in a loose leaf form.
Given that you use a lot more mate to make a brew, than you would use tea or coffee, it is not surprising to learn that the average per head consumption is some 6 to 7 kilos per year.
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Papillon Hotel, Bella Vista
Papillon Hotel was an excellent place to stay when visiting the Jesuits ruins at Trinidad and Jesus. It also enables you to see the Son et Lumière at Trinidad. Located at Bella Vista, which is about 15 minute drive to Trinidad, a little longer to Jesus
The rooms are in separate blocks away from the reception, and are set in landscaped grounds, and the grounds have a swimming pool and gym.
Breakfast is a typical buffet, and dinner offers either a buffet or a la carte - we had one of each as we were there two nights. . The a la carte was again better than I had been expecting.The buffet has a chef barbecuing various meats on a continual basis - he cuts what you want for you . Interesting to watch, but a little overcooked
They recommended a trip to a Yerba Mate factory, which we took, and is described above
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